Before I get started on my Make Nine 2017 posts, let’s have a look at those Safran jeans I mentioned.
These are one of the proudest moments of my sewing life.
I have a love/hate relationship with jeans, which mostly falls into the hate category when it comes to new ones. I am wearing jeans right now which I equally love and hate (love: appropriate length, skinniness and sexiness round the bum*; hate: can fit two of me into the waist but could only fit one thigh in the size below).
So, naturally, when Deer+Doe released the Safran jean pattern, I jumped straight on it. I wonder sometimes if Eleonore sneaked into my house with a tape measure one night while I slept, because I have always fitted perfectly into her size 40 tops and dresses without a single alteration. As it turns out, it wasn’t quite as simple with the jeans, but her clear guidance and tutorials got me sorted.
My measurements were way across the board with this pattern: although it may not look like it from the pictures, I span almost four sizes. I am pear-shaped, with the widest part of my body across my upper thighs, and a comparatively tiny waist. I was between 38 and 40 at the waist, and between 44 and 46 at the widest part of my legs. Grading was definitely necessary- and plenty of it.
But look! It worked!
I cut out version A, full length with belt loops and pockets, but in reality ended up making version B with longer legs. By the time I reached belt loop stage, I realised that, for the first time in my life I had a pair of jeans which didn’t need a belt, so why the heck would I add one?!
The pockets were another thing. I love a good pocket, but back pockets are always a bit dodgy. Put them in slightly the wrong place, and look like you’ve eaten several more pies** than reality. As soon as I started working with this fabric, I realised unpicking is really not an option. It can be done once… very carefully… but make one false move, and BAM, hole. This happened a lot. I did a lot of trial runs with a bit of scrap fabric before getting stuck in to anything on this fabric and still effed up a couple of bits. So, pockets were not worth the risk. I love them with no pockets. Happy gamble.
My fabric was an end-of-roll from stoffe.de (same pattern, slightly darker colourway here) which didn’t cost me too much. I was reluctant to pay for anything pricey since I hadn’t made trousers before and it could all go horribly wrong horribly quickly. These were essentially a wearable toile (because I don’t really believe in toile-ing anything that isn’t a wedding dress. I am cheap.).
I also got a gold-coloured zip from the same place, and paired it with this brassy looking button of which I seem to have about seven lying around in various spots in my sewing room. I have absolutely no idea what I originally bought them for, but this one looks just splendid on the front of my jeans.
Jeans-making result: success! Yes, there are bits I’m not entirely happy with, but by and large everything is where it should be.
I made a video about this for my YouTube channel but it seems that my crappy microphone is making me almost inaudible, so you might want to put headphones in and turn your volume up. Alternatively you can just watch me boogie alone around my sewing room to a soundtrack of your own choosing. I am now the proud owner of an external microphone, so any and all future videos will be audible and you’ll get to wonder where the heck I picked that accent up for yourself. If you subscribe. (Please.)
*That should guarantee me some strange Google referrals for the rest of my blogging life.
**Mine’s goats cheese and lentil, if you’re asking.